Clutch plate

The clutch plate finally arrived so I aligned it with an old constant velocity shaft, bolted up the pressure plate, and installed the trans and driveshaft. The engine and trans are off the chain hoist and supported solely by the chassis. Seems like a long time comming. At least now it can be rolled around the shop and even outside if the weather ever breaks. In other news, the seat frames, engine dipstick, emergency brake handle are off to the chromer. And the head has had new guides installed. It should be out of the machinist's shop soon.

Seat bracket, gas lines

I made a new seat back bracket. Port sheet Metal bent up the piece and I welded it and primed it. Seems to be a very close match.


I also started to bend up the fuel lines. These are kunifer like the brake lines and these shots are of the lines where they enter the fuel pump and snake around and through the frame.

Front shocks

The front shocks arrived. These are GAZ adjustable type. First shot is the back of the right shock and the next is the front of the left.

Typical of the stuff that I recieve from the parts houses, the fanbelt is too long. Ordered specifically for an early XK120, it is an inch too long. This one is a 39-3/4" belt and as you can see in the last shot, it is way loose even when at full out on the adjustment.

Seat Pan

Since I am so incredibly close to driving this around, the seats are getting a lot of attention. The seat pans have been finished as have the wood bases. The bases have been cut from 7 ply 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood. So you are viewing first, the plywood base, then the metal pan, then both together setting in the chrome seat bottom.  I'm going to put a wood sealer on the plwwood, then they get fastened together.  This was done originally with small nails.  I think that I will see if I can use a small screw so I don't have to hammer on the paint.

Finally, the last shot is of the three good metal bent plates after primer.

Seat Stuff

The chrome folding seat back supports have been removed from the bent metal seat back structure. They were spot welded on and the spot welds have been drilled out. The closest bent metal piece needs to be replaced as there is not enough metal left to reweld. The flat pieces get rechromed then reattached. Now, the question is is it easier to fill the drill holes and then respot weld the chrome pieces, or is it easier to use the drill holes to simply reweld the chrome pieces back to the bent metal pieces and will the chrome pieces stand up to the heat this way?

The last two shots show the measurement from the top of the chrome piece to the bottom of the bent metal piece so I don't have to remember. Lots easier on the feeble brain.

Wood Seat Structure

Rather than put up with repair of the original plywood, I decided it would be better just to replace it all. The solid oak top rail and the outside solid oak ends are reused. The original and replacement plywood is 3/8" 7 ply Baltic birch. All of the old tack and nail holes have been filled and sanded smooth. It's come out pretty good so far. Dee says that these are the best looking of these things that she has ever seen. High praise indeed.

Next I want to cut the wood for the seat bottoms then the refinished seat pans can be installed into the wood frame. If anyone out there knows what the orininal wood for the seat bottom is, let me know. Somewhere along the line, the wood was replaced with some 5/8" plywood pieces. I am now guessing that the bottom may have been cut from some of the same 7 ply Baltic birch. I don't know but I want to replace it with the original type.