Sunday, September 19, 2010

The brake master cylinder is mounted to the frame. The black cover with the copper rivets is a heat shield that contains an asbestos inner layer. The exhaust pipes will run between the engine and this shield. It is astonishing to me that this stops the brake fluid from boiling, but apparently it does.

The right rear lever shock is located in position. I need to rebuild the link that connects the lever arm to the rear axle. Also, so far I have not been able to find the light hydraulic oil that is required to replenish the shocks. There must not be much call for shock oil these days. Before they are mounted for good, they need to be drained from the top fill port, refilled, attached to the link, then mounted with new nuts and washers.

Finally, the front front plate that mounts between the frame and the cowhorns is fitted. This piece also forms the front attachment point for the body as well as the bonnet latch.

In other news, the block has been repaired and is holding pressure. Freeze plugs are in place and also holding pressure. The top surface still needs to be machined flat. And the cylinders need to be bored out 0.040. This should happen this week. Then I order pistons and once they arrive, the crank, rods and pistons get balanced. Then the crank is getting machined to install a proper rear main seal. Then it all comes back home to be reassembled. With that the short block will be done.

Steering worm gear has been slightly polished. The distance pieces that were left out on the last rebuild are being sought, then the steering box can be reassembled.

Bouchers Machine is doing all of the machining and is making a couple shims to allow the tranny to be reassembled.

I'm having difficulty locating the proper front brake shoes. Noone will sell me replacement ones outright; the all want to exchange with the original which I don't have. Hello ebay. Also the original front drum brakes had a sort of metal scoop that is covered with a wire mesh stone guard. This is intended to reduce fade and it seems that everyone threw them away when they started to rust. I can't find any measurements. I would like to build some like the original (except perhaps in stainless steel) if an original can be found to measure and copy. They were also offered later with a cover to block the scoop inlet from mud and rain. I doubt that I will need the cover.
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3 comments:

  1. For your suspension oil woes - perhaps something from the motorcycle shock world, where there are still a large enough number of oil-filled rebuildable shocks around, e.g. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p303815&leafCatId=&mmyId= or http://www.vitalmx.com/product/feature/Honda-Introduces-New-High-Performance-Pro-Honda-Fork-and-Shock-Oils,2566 ?

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  2. And perhaps I spoke too soon - here looks to be a good comparison table that may help -
    http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/products/pdf_3119_1.pdf

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  3. Thanks, Zach. I'll give it a try and let you know how I make out.
    Gerry

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