Started to put some plumbing on the frame. This is a kunifer brake pipe system. Kunifer is a copper and nickel alloy as I understand it, so it can't corrode and it is fairly easy to bend. This is the first time I have ever used this stuff and I have to admit that I like it. It is about the same money as a steel set but is much less expensive than a stainless steel set. This actually is very close to being complete ( the brake plumbing that is) and would be except for the fact that the stainless steel flex line for the rear axle that was shipped to me is two inches too long and the last hard piece for the rear axle is 3 feet too long.

In other fun facts, the block did not clean up at 0.040 overbore. It seems that the last rebore job did not quite happen square to the world. So the larger bore has to be used to resquare the piston with the crank. There is a chance that the new rebore could be 0.050 over if I can find the right piston rings. It's more likely that I will go for 0.060 over so the ring manufacturer choice is greater. Unfortunately, this will be the last rebore for this block if I do that. I read one time that Phil Hill (back in the day when he was racing xk-120's) used to bore the 3.4 engines to 3.8 liter. I have never read in any tech manual that that is even possible. The stock bore is apparently 83 mm. If one does the math for the displacement at 3442 cc, then the stroke is 3442/(3.14x 8.3/2x8.3/2 x1/6 )=95.42mm.. Assuming that he used the same stroke, then the square root of (3800 /( 6x9.542x3.14)) = r = 45.9644mm. Therefore the diameter is 91.9287mm. And the difference is 9.93 mm or 0.391 of an inch overbore. Wow! There can't be much of the cylinder lining left at that point.

The brake master cylinder is mounted to the frame. The black cover with the copper rivets is a heat shield that contains an asbestos inner layer. The exhaust pipes will run between the engine and this shield. It is astonishing to me that this stops the brake fluid from boiling, but apparently it does.

The right rear lever shock is located in position. I need to rebuild the link that connects the lever arm to the rear axle. Also, so far I have not been able to find the light hydraulic oil that is required to replenish the shocks. There must not be much call for shock oil these days. Before they are mounted for good, they need to be drained from the top fill port, refilled, attached to the link, then mounted with new nuts and washers.

Finally, the front front plate that mounts between the frame and the cowhorns is fitted. This piece also forms the front attachment point for the body as well as the bonnet latch.

In other news, the block has been repaired and is holding pressure. Freeze plugs are in place and also holding pressure. The top surface still needs to be machined flat. And the cylinders need to be bored out 0.040. This should happen this week. Then I order pistons and once they arrive, the crank, rods and pistons get balanced. Then the crank is getting machined to install a proper rear main seal. Then it all comes back home to be reassembled. With that the short block will be done.

Steering worm gear has been slightly polished. The distance pieces that were left out on the last rebuild are being sought, then the steering box can be reassembled.

Bouchers Machine is doing all of the machining and is making a couple shims to allow the tranny to be reassembled.

I'm having difficulty locating the proper front brake shoes. Noone will sell me replacement ones outright; the all want to exchange with the original which I don't have. Hello ebay. Also the original front drum brakes had a sort of metal scoop that is covered with a wire mesh stone guard. This is intended to reduce fade and it seems that everyone threw them away when they started to rust. I can't find any measurements. I would like to build some like the original (except perhaps in stainless steel) if an original can be found to measure and copy. They were also offered later with a cover to block the scoop inlet from mud and rain. I doubt that I will need the cover.

The metal part of the trunk floor is removed. From a distance it looks pretty solid, unfortunately the metal has been weakened by the ol' tin worm from the inside and the shape deformes very easily. I'll blast it soon and see how bad it is.




The last two shots show the rear clip on its side with the spare wheel tray exposed. It took a pretty good hit sometime in it's life and is throw-away.

Cleaned up master cylinder. This thing is a cast iron lump that probably weighs a few pounds. Thye shot is of the unit with primer. Today it was finished with epoxy topcoat and should be ready to install in a couple of days.


After that, there is a couple shots of the driveshaft disassembled and primed. The universal joints have been removed and one of them was very worn. Likely will replace both just because. The driveshaft has been welded about four inches from the front spline. I ground down the weld and it seems pretty solid- not many holes so I will assume that it was done by someone who knows how to weld. I am concerned that the thing could be out of balance and will have it checked out prior to reinstalling.


Last shot shows the insidepart of the heater box that penetrates the firewall. This car did not originally have a heater so it was added later. I'm going to remount the heater because if I don't there will be this nasty scar where it was. Like everything else with this car, the heater was added, but when the box was located in the firewall it was installed about a half inch out of center. The cut-out itself is pretty crudely done and with it off-center will be difficult to fix.

Cleaned steering box.
Front motor-mount with the big hunks of metal that were welded to the front removed. Luckily the welds were generally bad and the pieces were easily ground off. Unfortunately the mount has two places where the metal is cracked and it may just be better to find a replacement rather than try to reweld.

Then the old lever shocks are cleaned and primed, and ready for the final finish. The oil needs to be changed badly but otherwise they are ok.

And finally the trans tunnel pieces are primed.

Emergency brake assembly attached to the frame. All as it should be except that the brake handle itself needs to be rechromed. I think that I will wait until I have other bits to send along.



The next shot is of the brake pedal and clutch. Both are in need of other parts to be installed finally. The shaft that the clutch attaches to has to wait until the bellhousing is in place as the shaft loose end slides into a bearing in the bellhousing. The brake awaits the mastercylinder.


The third photo is the right front suspension showing an attached tie-rod.

And finally a look at the whole assembly, such as it is.