The one known as Denise "the bull moose " Welding helped me carry the frame indoors from the trailer today. She told me that she has been working out and now her muscles are just huge. No comment.


Shot of sandblasted serial number at brake bracket.

A little dirt from the frame.

A sleeve fastened over the rear diff driveshaft flange to help stop leaks from the seal. Cost me $6.70 at Bouchers in Rowley. Good except that he also insulted me about my choice of cars.

Another problem discovered after sandblastng is that the frame mounted socket that the mechanical cluth bushing rides in is very worn. First photo is of the worn socket. The socket in the next photo is of the right hand side for use with right hand drive. I think that I will cut them both off and replace on the opposite sides. That way the unused one will be on the left side.

The other photos show where I discovered a very weak serial number on the front crossmember. The one is vitrually invisable. The last photo has dirt rubbed across so it becomes visable. The location is right behind where the "Made in England"plate is fastened. It will soon be covered by paint.

The frame returned from it's overnight outing at Specialty Stripping in North Hampton. She was well behaved and came back bright and shiny. No holes from rust anywhere. I did find a couple new problems, however. On the opposite side of the suspension tower where the chicken poop welding was removed the tower has cracked away from the frame rail. She goes in for another overnight outing on Tuesday at the welding shop for repairs.

The reassembled diff.

The frame goes to have a sleep-over at the sandblaster's. I've decided to sandblast rather than have it dipped because the painter that I'm using has concerns about the acid leeching out over time if it is not completely neutralized and damaging the new paint. I want to get the inside of the frame rust-proofed somehow.
The differential is back on the axle casing. The numbers 18x59 stamped on the top of the differential indicate a higher than standard gear ratio. The standard rato is 3.46 to 1. This diff has 3.27 to 1 which was available as an option when ordering the car. This also means that since the speedometer is mechanical that the speedometer is geared differently than standard.

The rear axle casing prior to cleaning the inside. Egad. Second shot is of cleaned up brake carrier plate. Third is of the cleaned and primed plates and drums and brake parts. Notice the lettering still on the face of the brake shoes. Pretty close to new at 46 years since being moved. Last is of the telescoping shock brackets that fit beneath the rear springs.

I worked on cleaning the rear axle. Sandblasted it, then primed it. and then dismantled it. Its a strange thing: the outer bearings, which should be covered in grease are virtually dry. At the same time the bearings and races look brand new. Someone as been in here as the locktabs on the large axle nut have been loosened then reset. The differential is covered with this suff that should be oil but looks much more chunky and black. But otherwise, it's in great shape. I cleaned it and reinstalled it. All seals are shot and I can't tap off the bearing to get to them. Off to the machinist.

Cleaned up rear axle brake drums. Other shots are of each side axle hub and brake backer plate. I have to pull the axles as the wheel lugs are stripped out on the right side. They are essentially hamered over onto the hub similar to a rivet. They will need to be drilled out when the axle is removed and new installed. Getting the whole assembly sandblasted prior to disassembly sounds cleaner and easier. The differenial oil seal is so shot that I have drained all the oil (sorta like oil) by turning the diff down.

This is the remains of the mouse nests that I pulled out of the frame. These bits were too large to get sucked into the shop vac. I think that most of the frame is now clear. At leat what I can get to.

Some more cleaned bits of the front suspension. Notice the stub axle on the upper right. It apparently got so hot that it turned black and shows tracks as if it was throwing welding sparks. Obviously, will be replaced. All the rubber bushes have been removed and discarded. I am trying to decide if they should be replaced with polyurethane rather than rubber. They are stiffer and last longer and will give sharper handling but also give a harsher ride. Second photo shows the recoated front sway bar and torsion bars. Then the two front hubs; the right front grease was hard as wood. Maybe a result of the overheated stub axle? Or the cause?

Cleaned up the chicken crap welding on the left frame motor mount. Needs to be rewelded as the weld was brittle and full of holes. Other shots are of lots of bits and pieces from the front suspesion. Sandblaster has been busy. Most are cleaned and ready to be paint-preped and finally painted. Ordered some epoxy paint for the cast iron bits to experiment with on the color.

I started to disassemble the rear axle. Discovered that the brakes had been recently redone. If you look closely you can see the rivets that attach the shoe lining are still shiny and bright. The drums were turned properly. Looks good. The inside and of the drum was painted chrome/aluminum. Clean but not original. The differential seal is completely shot and allowing something that should be oil to escape. When the leaf springs came off, it was apparent that the wedge spacer that sets betwen the axle and the spring on the right side was installed in the wrong place ( about a quarter inch out) at some past repair. The mislocation would have caused the car to crab badly. The front right stub axle was also virtually destroyed and looked as if it was on fire. Must have been quite a handful.